Southland Weimaraner Club

The premier Weimaraner Club for Southern California.

The Truth About Pet-Friendly Hotels

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By Carol Bryant

If you’ve ever taken a trip with your dog and checked into a hotel that claims to be “pet friendly,” there are a few things to keep in mind that might not be advertised.

As a pet traveler of 20 years, I have encountered mostly amazing experiences at pet friendly hotels and bed and breakfasts, but occasionally one falls through the cracks. Pet friendly does not mean red carpet in all cases, so keep these pointers in mind the next time you book a room for you and Fido:

  • Fees are usually imposed on travelers who are staying with pets. Always ask ahead if there are fees involved, how much, and if there is a fee for each pet or a one-time deal. Often, hotels will hold a security deposit and then refund it or not charge your credit card prior to checking out.
  • Pet friendly has its pets allowed limits. You can bring three kids, just not three dogs, as an example. Ask first how many dogs are allowed. Nothing ruins a trip or vacation than hearing, “sorry ma’am, but three dogs are not welcome here, only two.”
  • Ask about their pet policy and what exactly it entails. Most pet-friendly establishments have a policy in writing and will ask you to sign it upon check in. Read the fine print carefully and if it isn’t, ask where you can find whatever they have as it pertains to rules of pets staying there.
  • Breed restrictions may apply, so ask ahead. I am hearing more about this but I’ve yet to encounter it. I personally would not stay somewhere that had a problem with my “breed” of dog. Better to be safe than sorry, so question the policy before making a reservation.
  • You can be asked to leave if your dog barks and is disturbing other guests. I understand this. I never leave my dog alone in the room. If a fire occurred, who is worrying about the dog in room 204 and if he gets out safely? Chances are, no one. Some hotels have a concierge service or can recommend a pet sitter/dog walker if you want to leave Fido behind while sightseeing.
  • Pets may not be allowed on beds, couches, furniture in general. My dog is allowed on all of this at home, so I travel with sheets and lay them across everything when I travel. I am sure at some point, whether child or adult, sockless feet have jumped on the same bed/the same furniture in the hotel, but pet travelers get the warning. I respect it and my dog’s paws never touch the fabric.

Why Join a Club

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By Vickie Margolis

Something that has been on my mind for quite some time:  Why there is little participation from our membership.  And in researching, it is not just SWC, but many dog clubs, car clubs, gardening clubs…you name it.  It seems more and more the questions from prospective and former members is WHY SHOULD I JOIN A CLUB?  WHAT CAN A CLUB DO FOR ME?

I’d like to share my thoughts on that.  The reasons are many….Our lives are busier and more hectic than ever, we have more and more choices as to what to do with the little leisure time we have, traffic (especially here in So. Cal) is horrendous, options for social interactions without ever leaving home are greater than ever before.  I think people have lost sight of the reasons clubs/organizations exist.  Clubs were formed to bring together those with like interests in something, whether it be a car club, a golf club, a sports club or a dog club.  Breed specific dog clubs like Southland Weimaraner Club bring together those in a relative local area that have a love of a particular breed, enjoy talking about, and doing various activities with their dogs.  It really makes no difference if your dog came from rescue, or a successful long time breeder of conformation or field trial lines, they are all Weimaraners.  Specialty breed clubs like Southland Weimaraner Club are there to support and help us all realize the potential locked inside our dogs and provide a local community for us to exchange information about health issues that affect all our dogs, and ask each other for help when needed.  Local clubs are a resource for their members to learn how to start your dog in conformation, obedience, field, retrieving, agility or just being a better family member. Clubs like SWC provide organized activities such as dog shows, field trials, obedience trials, hunt tests, field and retrieving ratings.  These activities provide a way to let our dogs do the things they enjoy doing.

SWC is Southern California’s local club that is a regional member club of the  Weimaraner Club of America (also known as the WCA or the “Parent Club”)   The WCA is the keeper of the standard, the force behind health related research specifically in Weimaraners being done, a network of members across the country and even beyond our boarders with members all over the world.

The WCA is the guardian of our beloved Weimaraners.  The WCA upholds the standard by which all Weimaraners in the USA will be judged (not just conformation judging, but the essence of what a Weimaraner is).   Remember, there is a reason you choose to have a Weim. in your life, and not a different breed, or mixed breed. The WCA donates funds to research health related issues with the breed, is a central location to find information for breeding issues, then passes this information on to it’s members (and member clubs) who also pass the information on to their veterinarians.  These things benefit all Weimaraners from conception into old age.  The WCA and the regional clubs like Southland sanction and put on events for Weimaraner enthusiasts across the country.  The WCA keeps records of outstanding achievements of dogs, breeders, and individuals that have had an impact on the dogs we have today and hope to have in the future.  Through programs and committees like the Health Committee, we have the ability to learn more about the latest tests, and health issues that affect our dogs, we have a Breeders Education Committee to help spread information about the latest in what breeders need to know to help both our bitches and stud dogs continue producing happy, healthy puppies.

Clubs like SWC and the WCA need members to make these programs move forward, clubs are made up of volunteers who love the breed, and work hard to impart information and hold events that we all can participate in.  These events also contribute to keeping the Weimaraner that we know and love consistent with the standard, honing and evaluating hunting skills, and keeping them active in our modern world. Whether you have a budding Field Champion, Bench Champion, a Master Agility Dog, Hunting Companion, or a sweet lovable family dog, it is in part due to those that gave of their time and knowledge and helped spread information, years of experience, and thoughts to others that love the breed that produced that puppy you brought home.

In this months newsletter you will find your renewal form for the 2018/2019 year.  Please take a few extra moments to think what you can do to help keep SWC and all it’s history a viable club, check one of the boxes asking which area you would be willing to help with, or even attending meetings to offer up suggestions and thoughts.  As I’m finishing this up, the club has obtained a conference call number to hold our meetings.  It is hoped this will allow more members to attend the meeting through the conference call allowing easier access to attend the meetings and offer insights and suggestions.

Thank you for your attention for the minutes it took to read this, and I sincerely hope you will give thoughtful consideration to how you can help.

VM- Graymatter Editor & Membership Chair

Why I Dremel Instead of Clip

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Because it is more comfortable for the dog and you can get the nails shorter and smoother (which is nicer for you). Many professionals agree that this is actually a much more comfortable method of maintaining nails than clipping them because it does not pinch or hurt the quick. The quick is sensitive living flesh inside your dog’s nail. If you use a guillotine style, then the nail is pushed hard against the immovable blunt metal while the blade cuts in from one side. If you use the scissors-style, then two blades squeeze in from either side of the nail. The harder the nail, the more pressure you must apply. This can be very uncomfortable for the dog. In order to get the nails back, you keep doing a series of small clips and try not to hit the quick. As a result, you often stop short of where you could go, if you were using a Dremel. When done properly, there is no squeezing or pressure on the quick with the Dremel. Further, you can see “inside” the nail as you gradually grind back to the quick. So, you can judge when you’re getting close to nicking it and stop in time. With the Dremel, you can also grind off all around the quick so that it recedes faster and you can get even shorter nails. The closer you can get to the quick, the more you can force it to recede and the more quickly it will recede. Finally, you can grind off all the corners and rough edges leaving nice soft nails that don’t gouge nearly so much when your dog paws you for affection.

How to Use a Dremel to Trim a Dog’s Nails

Do not use the various grinding stones that come with the dremel because they get too hot for the dog’s nails and can hurt the dog! Please do not use any of these.  There are some great diamond bits that are easy to use, removes excess nail, and provides a nice smooth finish.  These bits are more expensive, but last forever. 

Step 1

Secure your dog. Every dog reacts differently to the sound and sensation created by a dremel, and until your dog becomes used to it, he may struggle or run away. A grooming table with an overhead arm to which you can attach the leash is optimal, but you can recruit an assistant to help hold your dog or you can tie your dog’s leash to a post or other sturdy object.

Step 2

Fit the dremel with a cylindrical bit or an inverted bit. The inverted bit with a hollow-tip works very well because your dog’s nail fits right inside the hollow area. Check hobby stores for a hollow-tip bit or ask your hardware store about special-ordering one. The cylindrical bit has a flat circular tip that offers safety and control. Avoid using a very small bit or a pointed bit that can slip and injure the dog.

Step 3

Introduce your dog to the dremel slowly. Let him sniff it while it is turned off, then turn it on and off to allow him to hear the sound it makes. If your dog is frightened by the dremel, the first few trimming sessions should be very brief.

Step 4

Hold your dog’s paw firmly, but don’t squeeze it. Push gently on the top of the dog’s paw, just above one nail, to separate that nail from the rest. This pressure will cause the nail to extend slightly. If your dog has furry paws, smooth the fur back and away from the nail or trim the fur away before using the dremel. If the dremel catches in long fur, it can injure your dog’s paw.

Step 5

Touch the spinning dremel bit to the tip of your dog’s nail, using very little pressure. The momentum of the dremel will grind away the tip of the nail, and using pressure may cause the tip to slip and injure your dog.

Step 6

Move the spinning tip lightly around the end of the dog’s nail, taking care not to place the bit too close to the skin or fur. Keep the hand that is holding the dremel moving at all times to reduce the risk of slipping.

Step 7

Speak reassuringly to your dog and take a break after each nail, offering your dog a treat or praise for being so good before continuing. A few short sessions are less traumatic than one long session.  Once your dog is used to this method of nail trimming, you can do more nails before stopping for a break.

Here is a link to a great demonstration on introducing your dog to the dremel:  http://www.doberdawn.com/doberdawn/dremel.html

And some links to the diamond bits:

 http://www.whitmansharpening.com/Diamagroove.html (this in my opinion is the Cadillac of the diamond bits)

 

http://groomwise.typepad.com/grooming_smarter/2016/10/dremelling-nails-with-diamond-bits.html  (also demonstrates using the diamond bit, and you can order direct from her.)

Buying Pet Medicines Online: Ensuring Products Are Safe

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From the FDA Website:

If you’re purchasing medications for your pet online to save money or for convenience, there are Internet sites that represent legitimate pharmacies.

But the U.S. Food and Drug Administration has found that there are others that sell unapproved pet drugs and counterfeit pet products, make fraudulent claims, dispense prescription drugs without requiring a prescription, and sell expired drugs. Any of these practices could mean that the products you are buying could be unsafe or ineffective for your pet.

In general, FDA regulates the manufacture and distribution of animal drugs, while individual state pharmacy boards regulate the dispensing of prescription veterinary products.

If you are ordering pet medications online, you should look closely to ensure that you’re ordering from a reputable pharmacy, says Martine Hartogensis, D.V.M., deputy director of the Office of Surveillance and Compliance in FDA’s Center for Veterinary Medicine (CVM).

Protecting yourself and your pet requires awareness of the importance of involving a veterinarian even when ordering online. If an online pharmacy does not require a prescription from a veterinarian before filling any order for prescription drugs, that’s a red flag.

Here are some other things to consider when looking at sites offering pet medications.

How to Recognize Legitimate Online Pharmacies

Look for pharmacy websites ending in “.Pharmacy.” You may be used to looking for the Vet-VIPPS seal on your pharmacy’s website. But as of late August, 2017, that no longer holds true. Instead, you should look for pharmacy websites ending in “.Pharmacy.” Under the National Association of Boards of Pharmacy (NABP) new Pharmacy Verified Websites Program, pharmacies must meet strict standards for enrollment. Once accepted, they are given “.Pharmacy” website addresses to help you quickly identify trustworthy, worldwide online pharmacies and pharmacy-related websites, so you can safely make purchases.

Order from an outsourced prescription management service that your veterinarian uses. These state-licensed Internet pharmacy services work directly with the veterinarian, require that a prescription be written by the veterinarian, and support the veterinarian-client-patient relationship. Ask your veterinary hospital if it uses an Internet pharmacy service.

But First, Consult Your Veterinarian

An online foreign or domestic pharmacy may claim that one of its veterinarians on staff will “evaluate” the pet after looking over a form filled out by the pet owner, and then prescribe the drug. But that could be a sign that the pharmacy isn’t legitimate. Written information—without a physical examination of your animal—may omit important clues to your animal’s condition, and is no substitute for a vet physically examining your animal.

CVM is especially concerned that pet owners are going online to buy two types of commonly used veterinary drugs that require a prescription: heartworm preventives, such as Heartgard, Trifexis and Interceptor; and nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), such as Rimadyl or Metacam.

“Both types of drugs can be dangerous if your vet doesn’t get involved,” says Hartogensis. “It’s not generally a concern if you use a legitimate online pharmacy and mail in a prescription from your veterinarian, who is monitoring your pet. But if there is no veterinarian–client–patient relationship, it’s a dangerous practice.”

Heartworm disease is a potentially fatal condition transmitted by the bite of a mosquito that is carrying larvae of the heartworm parasite. Dogs, cats, and ferrets can get heartworm disease. Heartworm preventives, given daily, monthly, or semiannually, depending on the product, kill the larvae before they become adult worms.

The American Heartworm Society recommends that you get your pet tested every 12 months for heartworm and give your pet heartworm preventive 12 months a year.

Veterinarians often prescribe NSAIDs to relieve pain in pets. You should not buy NSAIDS on the Internet without a veterinarian’s involvement because

  • your pet should undergo blood testing and a thorough physical examination before starting NSAIDs,
  • your pet should be monitored by a veterinarian while taking NSAIDs,
  • your veterinarian should discuss possible side effects of NSAIDs with you, and
  • the prescription should be accompanied by a Client Information Sheet that explains important safety information to you.

Updated: October 11, 2017

 

Holiday Pet Hazards – Annual Reminders

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While you are busy making your festive plans for Thanksgiving, Hanukkah, and Christmas, please don’t forget to include your pets. The holidays are a time for giving, but there are some things you should not share with your little best friends. Once you know the hazards, a little precaution and prevention will make holidays a happy time for everyone.

Some of the more common holiday hazards include:

Bones: The holiday turkey or chicken will leave a lot of tantalizing bones, but don’t feed them to your pet. Beware of steak bones, too. Small bones or bone chips can lodge in the throat, stomach, and intestinal tract.

Fat: Those wonderful potato latkes (watch the hot oil!), gravies, and poultry skin can cause severe gastrointestinal upset as well.

Holiday plants: Holly and mistletoe are extremely poisonous when eaten. The lovely poinsettia may not be truly poisonous, but its milky white sap and leaves can certainly cause severe gastric distress. With so many hybrid varieties available each year, the best approach is to keep the plants out of your pet’s reach.

Electrical cords: Holiday lights mean more electrical cords for kittens and puppies to chew. Be sure you have cords secured and out of the way.

Candles: Lighted candles should never be left unattended and that is even more important if left at kitty’s eye level or within puppy’s chewing zone. An exuberant tail, a swat of a paw, and candles and hot wax can quickly become disastrous. Anchor candles securely and away from curious faces and feet.

Pine needles: Check around holiday trees and boughs frequently. Ingested pine needles can puncture your pet’s intestines if sharp enough.

Holiday tree: Make sure your tree is well secured. If you have a tree-climbing cat or large dog with a happy tail, anchor the top of the tree to the wall, using strong cord or rope. Preservatives often used in the water in a tree stand can cause gastric upsets, so be sure it is inaccessible or not used. Avoid sugar and aspirin additives in the water as well.

Ornaments: Sharp or breakable ornaments, dreidels, and even aluminum foil should be kept out of reach. String objects, especially tinsel and ribbons, are to be safeguarded at all costs. They are thin and sharp and can wrap around intestines or ball up in the stomach.

Stress and company: With everyone coming and going, watch out for open doors and sneaky pets. Make sure your pets have collars and tags on in case of escape. Ask guests to keep an eye out for pets under foot and remind them that sometimes your normally friendly dog or cat may be less than willing to deal with enthusiastic children and rooms full of unfamiliar people. Provide a special quiet place with a blanket and fresh water for your pets to retreat to when the festivities get too stressful. Did you know that some caged birds are afraid of the dark? Try a night light or leaving the front of the cage uncovered. Before traveling with your pets, make sure they have all required vaccinations and health papers. If they are on medications, have enough to last through the trip. When traveling by air, be aware of airline restrictions regarding outside temperature and number of animals allowed per flight. Someone may have already booked a pet, and there are no more allowed. Check with the airline reservations or travel agent. Remember that even the most gentle and trusting pet may bite when in pain. If you must muzzle, use a soft towel or cloth strips and remove it as soon as possible so the pet can breathe more easily. Beef- flavored toothpaste? Sounds pretty awful, but it’s just one of a number of specially formulated pastes for pets. Never use human toothpaste: it irritates a pet’s stomach.